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Plazas

Plaza del Príncipe de Asturias

The most romantic square in Santa Cruz: a 19th-century garden on the grounds of a former Franciscan monastery, with monumental Cuban laurels (1864), a 1929 bandstand and allegorical Carrara marble sculptures of Spring and Summer. Next door: Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes (FREE, Flemish painting 16th-20th c.) and the Church of San Francisco. Cafe with shaded terrace. FREE 24h. Parking Plaza de España 5 min.

Plaza del Príncipe de Asturias is the most romantic square in Santa Cruz and a favourite meeting place for locals for over 160 years. More garden than square: raised above street level, with entrances up steps and enclosed by stone walls. The land belonged to the Franciscan monastery of San Pedro de Alcántara and was its garden (huerta). During the desamortización (confiscation of church properties) in the mid-19th century the city decided to create a public square here.

In 1857 the Ayuntamiento formally purchased the plot for 47,140 reales de vellón. 12,000 rvn were missing: three of the wealthiest residents (Ramón Mandillo, Isidro Guimerá and José García-Ramos) lent the sum interest-free. On 7 December 1857 a company of firefighters demolished the wall. At the ceremony the civil governor announced the birth of the Prince of Asturias, the future Alfonso XII, and hung a plaque with the name on a tree. During the September Revolution of 1868 the square was briefly renamed 'Alameda de la Libertad', but the name did not stick and chicharreros returned to 'Plaza del Príncipe'. The project was by city architect Manuel de Oraá y Arcocha. Opening: 29 October 1860.

In 1864 Captain Domingo Seris Granier brought Indian laurels (ficus) from Cuba, which still provide shade across the entire square today. They are among the oldest trees in the city. In 1866 Manuel García Calveras donated two allegorical sculptures in Carrara marble: Spring (Primavera) and Summer (Verano). An ornamental iron fountain stood in the centre from 1871. In 1929 it was replaced by an octagonal music pavilion (templete), where the Santa Cruz municipal band still plays. In 1994 the sculptural group 'Coraje' (Courage) by Dutch artist Hanneke Beaumont was installed: bronze and steel, four human figures in two groups facing each other. In 2014 a life-size monument to Enrique González Bethencourt was unveiled, founder of the legendary murga Ni Fú-Ni Fá and icon of Santa Cruz Carnival, made in the Bronzo workshop in La Laguna.

The square has enchanted famous visitors. Jules Leclercq, the Belgian writer and author of 'Journey to the Fortunate Islands' (1879), wrote: 'Behind the church of San Francisco is a passage that has no equal anywhere.' Fernando María de Baviera, accompanying Alfonso XIII during his 1906 visit, simply called it 'La plaza bonita'.

Next door stands the Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes (Calle José Murphy 12): free admission, in a classicist building from 1929 (architect Eladio Laredo). The museum's roots go back to 1840, when the city stored in boxes the battle flags captured from Admiral Nelson's fleet in 1797. The façade features 10 busts of famous Tinerfeños sculpted by Compañ (1932): Ángel Guimerá, Antonio de Viana, Valentín Sanz and others. 14 rooms with paintings from Flemish 16th century to 20th: the Triptych of Nava y Grimón by Pieter Coecke van Aelst, San Andrés by Ribera, Orpheus by Jan Brueghel the Elder, portrait of Isabella II by Federico de Madrazo, works by Sorolla and Canarian painters. The museum also holds works on loan from the Prado Museum in Madrid. Next door: the church of San Francisco and the Capilla de la Venerable Orden Tercera (1763, baroque altarpiece, frescoes).

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Practical info
Visit duration30-60 min (the square itself). Add 45 min for the Museo de Bellas Artes.
Best time to visitMorning or afternoon. The square is shaded by laurels, so even at midday it is pleasant. Popular among residents for relaxation, reading, socializing. The municipal band plays in the bandstand occasionally. During Carnival the square comes alive with daytime dances and events.
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How to get there
By car

The square is bordered by streets Ruiz de Padrón (north), José Murphy (east), Villalba Hervás (south), Valentín Sanz (west).

By bus / public transport

Tram: Teatro Guimerá stop (5 min walk). Bus: Plaza del Príncipe stop.

Get here by bus
Parking

Parking Plaza de España (underground, beneath Plaza de España) - 5 min walk. Alternative: Parking APK2 Weyler (7 min walk).

Navigate to parking
Insider tip

Plaza del Príncipe is a secret garden in the centre of Santa Cruz: most tourists walk past without knowing that one of the city's most beautiful squares is here. Enter from Valentín Sanz (the only entrance without steps) and sit on a bench beneath the laurels from 1864. Belgian writer Jules Leclercq wrote in 1879 that it had no equal anywhere in the world. Fernando de Baviera in 1906 simply called it 'La plaza bonita'.

Be sure to visit the Museo de Bellas Artes next door: free, almost empty, and inside are Flemish masterpieces from the 16th century, Sorolla and works on loan from the Prado. The museum's roots go back to 1840, when the city collected battle flags captured from Nelson. Look for the sculpture 'Coraje' by Hanneke Beaumont: four bronze and steel figures facing each other.

The café on the square is good for a coffee in the shade: nothing fancy, but the atmosphere is unique. Combo: Plaza Weyler > Calle del Castillo > Plaza de la Candelaria > Plaza del Príncipe > Museo de Bellas Artes > Parque García Sanabria (5 min uphill).

History
Before 1857: garden (huerta) of the Franciscan monastery of San Pedro de Alcántara
1840Ayuntamiento stores battle flags captured from Nelson, origin of the museum collection
1857plot purchased by Ayuntamiento (47,140 reales de vellón). 7 December 1857: wall demolished, birth of the Prince of Asturias announced, square named. Architect: Manuel de Oraá y Arcocha
1860opening (29 October)
1864Indian laurels from Cuba (Captain Domingo Seris Granier)
1866Spring and Summer sculptures in Carrara marble (gift of Manuel García Calveras)
1868square renamed 'Alameda de la Libertad' after the September Revolution (name not adopted by residents)
1871ornamental iron fountain
1899founding of the Sociedad de Bellas Artes (Tarquis, Robayna, Estévanez)
1900first exhibitions at the Teatro Municipal
1929music pavilion (octagonal bandstand) replaces fountain. 1929/1933: Museo de Bellas Artes built (architect Eladio Laredo)
1994Coraje sculpture (Hanneke Beaumont, 2nd International Street Sculpture Exhibition)
2014monument to Enrique González Bethencourt (Bronzo workshop, La Laguna)
Suggested route

Parking Plaza de España -> Plaza de España (lake, Castillo de San Cristóbal, 15 min) -> Calle del Castillo (shopping, 10 min) -> Plaza de la Candelaria (obelisk, 5 min) -> Plaza del Príncipe (square, sculptures, cafe, 20 min) -> Museo de Bellas Artes (free, 45 min) -> Parque García Sanabria (5 min walk uphill).

Photo spots
1

Main entrance with stairs and the Spring and Summer sculptures on either side

The entrance from Valentín Sanz with the Carrara marble sculptures of Spring and Summer on basalt columns flanking the stairs. These Genoese sculptures from 1866 are one of the square's hallmarks. Best light in the morning.

2

1929 bandstand in the center of the square, surrounded by laurels

The octagonal 1929 bandstand surrounded by the canopies of Indian laurels from 1864. The Santa Cruz municipal band still plays here. Classic shot: from the side, with the laurels forming a natural tunnel.

3

Avenues under the Indian laurel canopies - tropical garden atmosphere

Walking under the canopies of the Indian laurels - trees from 1864 that form a natural roof. Light filtering through the leaves creates a tropical garden effect. Best photos at midday, when the light is soft and diffused.

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